Author: caleighwells

A Thousand Words

20/30

The Lennon Wall is now a popular tourist picture spot, but many of the Instagrammers looking to get likes on their next post have little idea of the significance of the colorful background they’re posing against. 

When Prague was under communist rule prior to 1989, there were many things banned from the public that were considered Western— including music from The Beatles, because they had lyrics praising freedom. In Prague at the time, freedom didn’t really exist. When John Lennon was murdered in 1980, the Czech youth began to see him as a sort of hero for his ideas and lyrics of peace. His picture was painted on this now famous wall, along with other tags defying the communist rule. 

As the police continuously tried to paint over the portrait and graffiti, people continued to add to it. The wall was never fully clean. The wall became a memorial for John Lennon and the resistance against Communism rule. 

Today, if you look beyond the tourists posing in front of the graffitied wall, you can still find similar messages of hope, as well as resistance. The Czech’s are currently protesting their prime minister, so there are many messages against him painted up there. As people still continue to add art to this wall, it represents the history of hope and resistance in Prague— layers and layers of paint, layers of messages that all give a sense of the climate of the time in the city. 

Morning glories

19/30

The Charles Bridge is a site to see at 6:00 in the morning. The sun in its ascent to the sky casts everything in a warm glow, and the busy chatter and crowds of the afternoon tourists and souvenir vendors is absent. Small fishing boats cast small ripples in the river as they cast their lines, and ducks create soft wakes behind them as they swim along with the occasional quack. The only people around are the last of the club crowd, stumbling home, squinting in the light, or the tourists who were motivated like you to finally wake up early enough to get some morning photos. It’s peaceful, relatively empty, and quite a scenic view worth waking up early for. 

Another demographic one can find on or around the bridge at this hour are the brides doing their bridal photos. With the perfect, soft, warm morning light, its quite a popular time and spot for photoshoots. They all do a similar routine— sometimes starting in Old Town Square, then moving to the steps of the bridge, and finally to the middle or all the way across. They’re followed by the groom, the photographer, an assistant, and sometimes family members. It is quite the procession. Being that there are quite a few of these photography sessions happening at once, it is almost a fairytale site with so many princess like figures gathering on the scenic bridge. 

Read why there are so many foreign brides in Prague on my post here! 

Weekend Miser

18/30

Every Saturday along the river, the city hosts a weekly farmers market and craft beer market. Local vendors fill the walkway with their tents and carts and produce, and hundreds— if not thousands— of locals and tourists go from stand to stand to examine their wares. From fresh fruits and veggies, to blooming flowers, to burger or pastry stands, to small farm milk, you could find the typical fresh ingredients sold at an ideal farmer market. 

One popular stand I was able to try was the fresh juice. The raspberry apple was a widely chosen option with its bright red-pink hue. People would purchase their goods and go sit along the river to eat them as ducks and swans swim hopefully beneath them, looking for any bits of food that happen to fall into the river.

It seemed to be a popular outing spot for families as well. There were many young children in strollers or on bikes, begging their parents for a sweet treat like a fruit pastry or homemade ice cream. Similarly, there were elder couples, buying fresh strawberries or flowers. Its an outing for all ages. 

Going to this farmers market inspired me to start going to the ones hosted in Austin when I get home. Seeing so many people support small, local vendors was a wholesome experience. 

a thousand words

17/30

Český Krumlov was the picturesque town I imagined when I first wanted to go abroad to Prague. The cobblestone streets, old buildings and churches, small and quaint. Although I learned quickly Prague isn’t all like that, I was happy to know we would visit a small town during our stay in the Czech Republic. 

Upon entering the city, I was blown away by the snug town that sat in between a river bend. The shops, restaurants, cafes, and museums all caught my eye as our group dragged our suitcases over uneven cobblestone to our hotel. However, even after walking only a short distance, I could tell something was amiss, and this was the masses of tourists swarming the streets. It was obvious they were tourists based on the large groups, the number of selfie sticks, and the amount of times they stop in the street to take photos. Over our few days there, I began to feel like no one in the town was from the city at all— they, and us included, were all outsiders. 

This was highlighted even more when I attended the Egon Schiele Art Centrum— the local modern art museum. There was an exhibition by Kateřina Šedá and her fictitious company, UNES_CO, who would hire Czech people to play locals and engage in homey activities to sell the performance such as doing laundry outside, taking children to the park, setting up a BBQ, etc. Šedá wanted to highlight the fact that these big tourist towns are no longer inhabited by locals, they are unlivable. 

This revelation gave me a new outlook on Český Krumlov. Once an ideal city of the Czech Republic suddenly became so fictitious, almost like a Disney Land exhibit. Although this city once did belong to locals, it had been grinded down and molded into a city simply for the tourism economy. The appeal was gone, and although it made for great instagram photos, I no longer felt I was getting that cultural experience that was promised in the Czech Republic. 

Architecturally Speaking

17/30

The Castle Tower in Cesky Krumlov is probably the most symbolic piece of architecture in the town. From different look out points, to bridges, to streets, tourists stop to take pictures of the tower as it stands proudly against the blue sky. Every depiction of the town on any form of souvenir isn’t without the tower in some form or fashion. 

Standing at 54.5 m, the tower is similar to the castle in that it contains different eras of architecture in its building. The base was started in Gothic style in the mid 13th century, however, the top— completed in 1581— is finished in a Renaissance style. 

I was able to climb the tower during our trip, and the 162 steps were worth it to see the view from the top. From the tower, you can see the whole city, snug in the crook of the Vltava river. The rustic orange roofs, the few bridges crossing the river, and the ant-sized tourists puttering around the city. It was truly one of my favorite sites of the trip. 

The Nocturnalists

15/30

After a great evening meeting up with a local photography club, having a drink and a few snacks at an American bar, it was time to head home for the night. I wasn’t too confident in the photos I had taken during the hour the photo club designated. The prompt was to take photos of single people enjoying the city, but most people by themselves weren’t doing anything too interesting. I had a few half hearted photos I was prepared to try to make work for the blog, however, when I stepped onto the tram, I found myself surrounded by potential subjects. 

On this night, the tram was filled with interesting characters. There were two men next to me donned in what looked like biker clothes, but I felt like I was too close (and maybe too intimidated) to snap their photo. I was very intrigued by this couple in the back, who were first standing and eventually moved to share a seat. 

I have always felt a little admiration towards the couples in Prague. They are not shy about their affection in public at all— especially on public transportation. I like to think they’re enjoying each other’s  company after a long day, sharing their tiredness, and getting ready to go home. Living in the US, public displays of affection are a little frowned upon, which thinking about it now, doesn’t really make sense, especially late at night. Everyone here minds their own business and lets couples be couples. 

This was my last and favorite photo of the night, and it’s one of my favorite photos I have taken on this trip so far. Although it is nothing special, no beautiful scene or grand architecture, it captures the essence of street photography that makes it so special, which is the decisive moment. It is one moment that can’t be recreated and is over in a split second. This moment of vulnerability— a couple letting their guard down to simply enjoy each other’s presence— reminds me of the daily, candid moments we forget that I would like to see captured in a photo. 

Small Wonders

14/30

The metro is always the place for tender moments. For a brief moment, you’re suspended in time, pushed into a small space crowded with other strangers, between the place you were and the place you’re going to be. Its a time where lovers have an excuse to stand close, their hands intertwined or pressed against the other’s back for balance as the metro lurches forward. Its a place where mother’s watch fondly over their children, holding them close and shushing them gently if their voices elevate louder than the soft chatter. A place where young people are tiredly content their day of work is done and they can go home. A place where elders rest their feet as they sit against the window. 

I have thoroughly enjoyed riding the metro during my time here. Its a great place to people watch, to have a quick rest of mind or feet— if you’re lucky. Watching the loved ones interact on the metro makes me miss my own loved ones back at home. 

This little boy, with his sagging red balloon, and his grandfather entered the metro before I did, and found one empty seat to sit together in. The grandfather handed the little boy a newspaper and he began practicing his reading. His grandmother, sitting nearby, would crane her neck to help the youngster when he stumbled over a word. It was one of the tender moments in this suspended timeframe I admired and was lucky enough to be able to snap a quick photo before departing to my stop. 

The Nocturnalist

13/30

Its an odd feeling, walking around at dusk in Prague only to look at the time and realize its almost 10:00 pm. Coming from Texas, where the sun sets no later than 8:00, my internal body clock isn’t tired when its light out, and the late sunset time here has been tricking my mind and body into thinking its not quite time for bed yet. 

It isn’t truly dark until after 10:00, and that’s when the lights of the city come on. Prague in the day is lovely no doubt; however, Prague at night is a soft twinkly kind of beautiful you appreciate when you’re strolling down cobblestone sidewalks. The inky blue black sky is a wonderful backdrop to tall steeples and history-rich buildings. The anxious rush of the day escapes with the light of the sun and all that’s left is the easy slow paces of people with all the time in the world. They stop for a drink, some ice cream, or to look into the lit up windows of shops that will open the next day. 

Walking just past the Charles Bridge, I noticed this bright window lighting up the dark sidewalk and a woman stopping for a moment in its light. This brief moment looked unworldly, so different compared to the soft yellow lights that typically leaked into the street. I snapped a  photo, turned away quickly, and hoped I didn’t bother her night on the town, enjoying the lit up city like I was. 

Noticed

12/30

The city was absolutely bustling for the 16th annual Museum Night. I didn’t expect to see such long lines of people waiting to get in all types of showcases, from science and technology museums, to history, to contemporary art, to movie films and special effects. Musicians were busking on the corners and filling the air with sweet tunes of violin and guitar, providing entertainment for the people standing in line.  

One museum I wanted to go to was the House of Photography, as we are here for a photography course, I was hoping to get some inspiration for my own photos. The current exhibition was showcasing photos bycJiří Hanke— a documentary photographer from Kladno, a city very close to Prague.

The viewers, including myself, in the House of Photography were equally intrigued, pensively looking closely at each photograph and reading its description. A popular collection was his Generations series— depicting a parent with their child, and then many years later, the grown child with their own children. Even though it was a simple project, it was very interesting and almost moving to see the way families grow and maintain similar traits. His photos were up close and personal shots of strangers and friends, entirely candid and close up, much like the photos our professor wants us to take. I left the exhibit feeling inspired and motivated to take photos that gives others the feeling I felt when looking at Hanke’s photographs.

weekend miser

11/30

Nearly every public square is brimming with music, food and drink vendors, people, and art as the Prague Music Festival kicks off in full swing. Free for the public, this event showcases Czech and international artists, dance events, as well as a run to raise awareness for ocean pollution. There is an event for every man, woman, and child this weekend. 

I saw the preparations for this music festival a few nights prior, and decided to go see what the fuss was all about. There was a huge crowd packed in Old Town Square in front of a stage that instantly reminded me of Austin City Limits. I squeezed into the crowd mixed of locals who danced and sung along to the songs, and locals who were also curiously intrigued and bopped their heads along. 

At first, I was very confused about the artist playing when I got there, Monkey Business, because of their odd costumes and their mix of English and Czech songs. However, I quickly found myself dancing along to their music because it was good and catchy! This festival is fun for tourists who aren’t familiar with Czech music, and this one band has a sound for everyone. The band ranged from pop-esque jams, to opera-like ballads— some in English and others in Czech. Music is such a universal language, even if you don’t know what they’re saying, anyone can enjoy it.