caleigh’s captures

Morning Glories

30/30

I decided to make my final photo of the program a morning shot for two reasons: one, to give myself time to go back to sleep after waking up at 4:00 to walk around the mostly empty city, and two, to appreciate one of my last days in Prague during its most peaceful hours. Sure, the people typically out and about around this time aren’t the most quiet and peaceful, but I can handle a few odd balls disturbing the tranquility better than swimming through crowds of tourists that gather in the hot hours of the afternoon.

I had a love/hate relationship with the amount of tourism in Prague. Part of it was nice because it meant a lot of things were in English, and locals expected most people around to speak English. However, it also meant a lot of the magic was gone for me. All the crowds with selfie sticks, large tourist groups taking up a majority of the sidewalk, the constant tourist trap activities all put a sour taste in my mouth.

That is why the mornings– the early, early mornings– are close to my heart. Most of the stuff I disliked during the day is stripped away and what’s left is a peaceful city washed in golden light.

the nocturnalists

29/30

The people on the metro around midnight are the kind of people like myself– who can go out for a bit to have a good time, but want to be back home in bed before the early hours of the morning hit. It could be filled with tipsy people heading to the bars or clubs, but squeezed, quiet in the corners, are the ones going home to their loved ones, or simply, their bed.

At night, there is more time between the metro’s arrival than during the day. Sleepy home-goers watch the clock tick down, and when there’s a minute left, one can hear the low rumble of the fast moving locomotive before the see it, feel the rush of cold air move through the tunnel onto the platform, see the light of the headlights before the red and white metro comes into view.

At night, only a few people exchange through the doors to get on or get off at their stop. Sometimes on the weekends it can be busier at this hour as weekend celebrators head off to bars and clubs. But even when tipsy, locals know to quiet down once they enter, like its some unspoken rule.

I will miss this simple form of transportation when I get back to the states– so easy to navigate and reliable. You never have the stress of traffic, never have to think about how much gas is in your car before you leave. It is something i wish the states could implement and push for more.

• 

location notation

28/30

The Vltava river is probably the best place to be to get a sense of the city. From a paddle boat with your friends (advice: bring some bread, cheese, grapes, wine, good music and good company for the best evening of your stay) a river boat cruise, or a spot on the river banks, you can see the castle, the fronts of colorful buildings, and many other landmarks the further you go up the river. Its cooler than being on land since the sun has no hot cobblestone to bounce off, and there is constantly a nice breeze. One can even take a dip in the river if it is a nice hot day.

In the mornings, there are no tourists on paddle boats but fishermen in small row boats casting their lines. At night, ships go up and down the river, casting wavy reflections of light on the dark water. In between, you can see the waters filled with fun paddle boats, such as swans, or old timey cars.

If you have 300 crowns to spare, taking a paddleboat out is an activity I recommend not missing. If not, wake up early before the rest of the city to get some hours of contemplation next to the peaceful fishermen. Or, walk across one of the many bridges at night to get a beautiful view of the city lit up, and the soft reflections it casts across the Vltava.

small wonders

27/30

Coming into my final week in Prague, I have learned many things about this special city and its people. Similarly, I have learned many things about myself. Being surrounded by so many strangers that speak a different language, share different ideals and customs, and have the familiarity of being home that I can’t possibly feel, can make one feel alone– quite often. This alone-ness can allow for some great observation and thought, as well as deep introspection.

I came to observe that Czechs aren’t always the friendliest people. They get frustrated when you don’t speak the language, when you ask to take food to go, when you ask to use card rather than cash. However, whenever there is a break from this hard exterior, and you receive a friendly smile or some broken english, it can feel so refreshing and relieving.

Being a tourist in a foreign country has also taught me how much I take for granted living in the US and knowing English. To me, the behavior the Czechs exhibit when tourists go against their norms seems rude, however I know in the US, Americans act the same way to tourists or immigrants who know more English than I do Czech. We’re equally not as welcoming. I am so used to the friendliness that comes with being an American from other Americans, so when I realized it was absent here, even the smallest acts of kindness added brightness to my day.

Not from these parts

26/30

Saint Barbara— the Saint that watches over miners, firefighters, artillerymen, and other laborers in dangerous careers— is the primary patron saint in the small town of Kutná Hora. Once a strong silver mining town, it makes sense why the citizens of Kutná Hora chose this saint to build such a magnificent cathedral to. Working long hours in near pitch darkness underground in tiny crawl spaces doing manual labor, these workers needed all the holy help they could get. 

Although Kutná Hora is no longer producing silver, it is still a city with a few tourist attractions. As long as you aren’t claustrophobic, you can brave the tight squeezes of the old silver mine paths for a little adventure. If you like a things a little spooky, you can visit the Bone Church, home to 40,000 human bones. If you aren’t into that, you can enjoy a delicious lunch in the town with a view over sprawling farm land and cozy cottages. The thing you must see while in town, however, is the St. Barbara Church. 

The beautiful, renaissance cathedral is set with flying buttresses, stained glass windows, and a grand altar that can take anyone’s breath away. Attendees would come inside, occasionally dip into the holy water, then admire the holy scene. 

Morning Glories

25/30

Prague has so many great photo-op spots, but chances are, if you notice it, hundreds (if not thousands) of tourists have noticed it too. There could even be an unofficial line waiting for a moment in that photo spot. Waiting too late in the day to get up and out and around the city will result in a rushed photo with that harsh, middle-of-the-day sunlight, and photo bombers ruining the background of what could have been a great memento of your trip.

The only solution is to wake up early– early, early. 5:00 am early, before a majority of the crowds are even coming out of their REM cycles. Only at this time can you get out to even the most popular tourist spots (the clock tower, the bridge, the castle, etc.) and get a decent photo. Not to mention, the lighting at this time is absolutely magical. The soft, golden light of the rising sun is flattering on everyone. This is the time you’ll find the professional photographers out and about, taking their scenic landscapes or popular wedding shots. 

If a great photo isn’t enough motivation to get up that early, consider waking up for the experience. As a person who doesn’t like swimming through the crowds of tourists, being one of the few people out on the Charles Bridge was a quiet, peaceful dream. Experiencing Prague at this time of morning allows one to take in their surroundings, contemplate, and enjoy their stroll through town. The photo taken at this hour can serve as a reminder for the intimate moment you got with the city in the early hours of the morning. 

Location Notations

24/30

The main Prague train station (Praha hlavní nádraží) can’t help but inspire wanderlust to even just the quick passerby. From the outside, one cannot walk by without glancing through the huge windows framed in green into the daylight lit station. It resembles a large greenhouse, but instead of plants, trees, and shrubs, the building hosts locomotives, travelers, and viewers like myself who were awed by the natural light. 

If you enter through the other side of the station, you can also be awed by the more ornate Art Nouveau entrance of the building.  The whole station is worth walking through even if you have no destination to get to because of the alluring interior, and the perfect people-watching spots. Planned travelers walking promptly to and from their train, rushed late arrivals running through the station before their form of transportation leaves without them, and standbys, sagging against walls and benches with their piles of luggage— you can see them all. 

I have yet to take the train out of Prague, and unfortunately I don’t think I’ll get the chance to this trip. One day I hope to have the ability to purchase a ticket, stroll to the big board of train times to find my platform, and board a train to another faraway city. 

Architecturally Speaking

23/30

Prague can be attested for hosting an array of architectural styles— to the gothic cathedrals,  the symmetrical Renaissance buildings, Baroque churches, Rococo palaces, to the ornate and harmonious Art Nouveau style that blossomed in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s. Characterized by flowery motifs, curved lines, and balance of the classical and modern, Art Nouveau sought to break apart the right angles of horizontal and vertical lines that was seen in a majority of buildings. 

However, Art Nouveau was not just about architecture. It was also an art movement for visual arts, clothing, jewelry, furniture, and everyday style. Outside of the Prague train station, there are depictions of women with the typical Art Nouveau hair styles— curls, braids, and updos matched the curved lines that defined the movement. 

Another testament to Art Nouveau is the Municipal House, a celebrated concert hall in the middle of the city. Its ornate entry way, from the dome, to the gold accents, to the curved lines of the balconies, boasts the art movement. Inside is also art work done by the famous Czech artist, Alfons Mucha who was known for his bright, detailed Art Nouveau works. 

This modern art movement might not be as common as the other traditional architecture styles that are found in Prague, but once you see it, it is easy to be wowed. 

Around Here

22/30

I’ve realized some things about learning of the horrors of the Holocaust in the United States. Students read about this historical event in textbooks, sometimes novels (like the tear jerking Boy in the Striped Pajamas) or watch short clips, but being so far away, it almost seems just like reading a story. It is all so awful it almost seems pretend, and there isn’t anything in their vicinity to associate to those horrors, so the knowledge dissipates as quickly as students walk out school doors.  

Despite this event happening before my lifetime, before my parents lifetime, maybe even before my grandparents lifetime (or before they were old enough to be aware of it), the horrors of the Holocaust suddenly became so real upon visiting sites, meeting people, and reading artifacts. I suddenly associated real, tangible things with an event I had read about so many times in school, and it just made the horrors so real and sickening I couldn’t help but tear up. 

Hearing first hand accounts and reading bits of letters from Czechs and Jews who had suffered got to me the most. We heard the story of Doris, who was just younger than me when she was taken to the Terezin concentration camp and lived and worked and suffered there for four years. Similarly, reading letters from people who lived in the ghetto describing the terrible conditions wrenched my heart. We were also able to read the letters from children of Lidice, a town destroyed as punishment for the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich, who wrote their family for supplies, but were all killed by gas chambers before the letters reached home. 

As sobering as these stories are, they are all true, and are memorialized by the Czech people. There is great care taken to make sure their stories are heard, these places are preserved, and tourists gain some level of understanding of the hardships faced by the people of this country. 

Noticed

21/30

My favorite type of moments are the ones you stumble into. Unknowingly happening upon something makes the memory of the moment more genuine. Today, me and some girls stumbled upon this market after hopping off the 26 tram on our way to lunch. We were originally going to a planned place, but came across another that sparked our interest, so we decided to look around. 

This market was one of my favorites I’ve been to yet on this trip. Much like the others, this one hosted many locally made products— from flowers, to toys, to meats, to jewelries. All the perfect souvenirs I’ve been looking for to bring back to the US for my loved ones. We spent nearly an hour there, looking from stand to stand at all the beautiful products, and I definitely dropped some Czech crowns on a few different places. 

One stand that caught my eye was a pottery stand, filled with homemade mugs, bowls, salt shakers, and more. All made by hand (even made at the stand themself) and painted by the artist. 

What I love about small shops such as this one is the pride the owners have about their work and wares. Every person I talked to who was selling at this market had a story to tell about what they did, how they made their products, and the care that was put into making it and packaging it for the buyers. Despite Czech’s being known for being reserved people, all the shop owners were friendly and enjoyed making conversation, and were more than generous and careful with packaging my purchases for me to take home. They all wished me to have a wonderful rest of my trip in Prague, and if I continue meeting people like them, I don’t doubt their wishes to come true!